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With Worcestershire, arame, and liquid smoke, the tempeh burger at WaterCourse Foods in Denver, Colorado is a study in umami. Photo by Evi Ebeler.

Hello Friends,

I can't tell you the last time I had "spaghetti," the generic kind we ate as kids before we knew about Bolognese or the infinite variety of regional pasta sauces. Just onions, ground beef, tomato sauce (maybe tomato paste), garlic, and of course, "Italian herbs." I had such a powerful craving so I made it but with an upgrade. I used ground beef from my local whole animal butcher, Standings, 24-month-old Parmigiano Reggiano I brought home from Parma, my fave Benedetto Cavaliere Spaghettoni, and my own canned tomato sauce. So freaking good. Then to balance things out this week, I dove into a dosas and uthappam feast for lunch with a friend at Culver City restaurant Mayura, a favorite for Southern Indian food. 

Earlier in the week, I met up with a group of KCRW Champion donors for a walking tour of the Santa Monica Farmers' Market. Side note: They have a few jobs open and are taking applications. We were joined by Clemence DeLutz whose recently opened bakery Petitgrain Boulangerie regularly sells out by noon. After choosing a variety of seasonal veg on offer and sampling stellar cherries from Murray Family Farms we walked over to Clemence's cooking school Gourmandise for a lunch class. It was a great way to start the day.

As for this long holiday weekend, I'll be hanging out with friends I haven't seen in a while and creating a weaving warp for some baby blankets I'll be making. Oh, and catching up on Bridgerton. What a confection!

Have a truly relaxing Memorial Day weekend my friends.

Chilling, Evan

French chef Henri Charpentier, seen here circa 1911, was credited with making French onion soup for Theodore Roosevelt. Photo by Arnold Genthe/Genthe photograph collection, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division.

"An onion is similar to a tulip," explains journalist Mark Kurlansky. "It's a bulb that produces a flower, each layer is the food for a different shoot." Once the bulb has flowered, it's no longer good to eat, but when eaten for food, it's indispensable. Kurlansky is famous for his single-subject deep dives that bring a prodigious intelligence to an insatiable curiosity. His latest, The Core of an Onion: Peeling the Rarest Common Food – Featuring More Than 100 Historical Recipes, is an entertaining and enlightening read.

Onions
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A group of people gathered in Griffith Park for a "Love-In." Writer Jonathan Kauffman attributes the longevity of healthy eating to the counterculture diet of the 1970s. Photo by William Reagh, courtesy of Digital Collections of the Los Angeles Public Library

You could find me every weekend at the Griffith Park Love-In pictured above. I should really get a magnifying glass and see if I can find myself. Growing up in Silverlake in the '60s meant that I cooked and ate my fill of hippie food. So I love San Francisco Chronicle food writer Jonathan Kauffman's book, Hippie Food: How Back-to-the-Landers, Longhairs, and Revolutionaries Changed the Way We Eat. He explores how the history of fringe food dates back to the mid-nineteenth century and how people such as Sylvester Graham, creator of the graham cracker, still reach into our kitchens now.

Hippie Food
Coarsely shredded beets and hazelnuts are combined for this veggie burger. Photo by Evi Ebeler.

I love a good veggie burger, one made of actual whole foods with great flavor and interesting textures. Lukas Volger approaches veggie burgers with the premise that they should be a creative expression of vegetables, legumes, and grains — not a meat simulacrum. Highlighting the textures and flavors of his chosen ingredients, he leaves plenty of whole beans in his black bean patty. Carrots and beets make for vibrant burgers, giving them the color of raw meat and helping them hold their shape. It's a great book for those trying to embrace more plant foods in their diet.

Recipe
Looking to Yotam Ottolenghi for inspiration, Pamelia Chia wanted to change the way people saw vegetables. Photo by Gold and Grit Photography.

When Pamelia Chia started her journey into a plant-rich diet, she found that most cookbooks were written by vegetarians for vegetarians. She wasn't interested in fake meat or soy-based products. Yotam Ottolenghi inspired her to reach out to 24 chefs, adapting their recipes for a vegetable-forward book, Plantasia: A Vegetarian Cookbook Through Asia.

Recipe
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When we remove meat from the center of our plates, what do we find? How would our world look if meat returned to its former status as a luxury good? Why do so many Americans think that eating meat is a birthright? Food writer Alicia Kennedy began asking herself these questions and ended up writing a book, No Meat Required: The Cultural History and Culinary Future of Plant-Based Eating.

Important
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I've been lobbying for a special reading of my favorite food-focused children's book for years. Nevada James Sharp and Calvin Yellot George oblige with a reading of A Fruit is a Suitcase for Seeds by Jean Richards. It's a great listen for little ones as well as adults.

Adorable!

What I'm Consuming

WEEKLY RECIPE: This week's recipe is an exhortation to lean into total comfort. I wanted my childhood spaghetti sauce. You know, the kind I pronounced "pisketti" as a child, so I made it. This isn't Bolognese or Ragù. It's a very tomato-forward meat sauce with herbs and garlic. Read the letter above to learn how I gave it an upgrade. This recipe isn't exactly what I did, but it's in the general ballpark.

BH Pie Contest: June 9th — If you're itching to use the skills you practiced but were unable to use due to the cancellation of our pie contest, why not put those skills to use for the Beverly Hill's Pie Bake and Piesta? It's smaller, but there's always fun where pie is found.

It's the Pits: Why is finding a good deodorant so hard?

Real Americans: by Rachel Khong (who I interviewed when she wrote about food) has a second novel out that I couldn't put down. The publisher aptly describes it as "An exhilarating novel of American identity that spans three generations in one family and asks: What makes us who we are? And how inevitable are our futures?" 

Dance Duo: Am I watching a woman dance with her stick bug? Why yes I am.

Old fashioned spaghetti with exceptional ingredients

Spaghetti with Tomatoey Meat Sauce
Photo by Evan Kleiman
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