A cookbook author opens a tattered leather valise and uncovers war journals from her French forbearers — with photographs and some very special recipes.
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Hello Friends,
I'm in Chicago with Good Food producers Gillian Ferguson and Laryl Garcia for the weekend. We're hoping we bring home a James Beard Award. Speaking of Gillian, don't miss her video about mulberries which are here for a brief seasonal appearance. She shows three different varieties to whet your appetite.
Given the aging population of our local farmers, it's great news to see a new younger face at the market. Alex Frecker's stand is one of those one-stop-shop opportunities. Beautiful veg of all kinds, lettuces, and strawberries means that if you need a quick in and out at the market you can easily buy what you need from this one stand.
We're sharing some fascinating stories this week. At the top of the list is my conversation with cookbook author Kitty Morse. Even though we both live in SoCal, Kitty and I met decades ago in Marakkesh. She's one of my favorite Moroccan cookbook authors and memories of the time we spent together at her family's riad will always be precious to me. She had the extraordinary experience of discovering an historical and familial treasure trove in a dusty valise handed down to her. There were journals written in French by her great-grandfather, an Army surgeon in World War I. The diaries, written in 1940, recount the German advance on a small town in northeastern France that had a sizable Jewish population. The other surprise was a book of handwritten, family recipes from Blanche, the surgeon's wife and Morse's great-grandmother. Morse used the material to write Bitter Sweet: A Wartime Journal & Heirloom Recipes From Occupied France. She refers to the work as three books in one — part history of the Belle Epoque, part cookbook, and then her grandfather's personal account. Truly mind-blowing.
A few months ago we received an email from a young man who was eager for me to read his mother's book, which documents the unique food culture of the Lebanon Mountain Trail. I am so glad he reached out because his mother'sbook is a gem. Hana spent weeks being welcomed into home after home, experiencing hospitality and an ancient cuisine that is hidden in those mountains. The result is Mayylu! Discovering Lebanon's Hidden Culinary Heritage — a book that's much more than a cookbook.
We also hear from Chef Jordan Kahn of famed restaurant Vespertine which is blossoming into its 2.0 version. I loved listening to him talk about his journey. And check out the image of one of his menu items below. There is no one like Chef Kahn.
If you're looking forward to a cold brew, try exploring our local mountains. Here's a hike along Whittier Hill that might end with a visit to Brewjeria, a Pico Rivera brewery founded by avid home brewers. In her book, Beer Hiking Southern California, Johanna Flashmanmaps out a variety of hikes. From paved, mile-long paths for strolling novices to longer stretches, the routes have one thing in common — a brewery isn't far from the end of the trail.
When Kitty Morse discovered a tattered valise in her mother's closet after her passing, the cookbook author stashed it away on a shelf, assuming it was filled with boring old documents. When she decided to look inside, she was stunned by its contents. She came across journals written in French by her great-grandfather, an Army surgeon in World War I as well as handwritten recipes from her great-grandmother. A must-listen segment!
This mussel dish from Vespertine 2.0 is indicative of Chef Jordan Kahn's creativity and drive.Vespertine serves roughly 32 guests a night, who visit multiple spaces. Music is an integral part of the experience. "It helps to create the world that we want people to be traveling in," Kahn says. Working to create a sonic environment, Kahn enlisted members of Icelandic band Sigur Rós and local producer and composer, CJ Baran.
The government of California might be getting into the tortilla production business… kind of. A proposed California law (Assembly Bill 1830) would require masa producers to add folic acid, AKA vitamin B-9, to all masa and corn masa products. The goal is to help prevent birth defects. But not all tortilla makers are thrilled about the idea, Los Angeles Times reporter Gustavo Arellano explains.
As the farming community ages, there's a new, fresh face at the Santa Monica Farmers Market. Alex Frecker of Frecker Farms in Carpinteria recently began setting up shop on Arizona Avenue. Frecker grows approximately 45 items year-round, with strawberries and tomatoes anchoring the crop. Look for his variety of lettuces at 15 or so different markets across Southern California.
WEEKLY RECIPE:You get more than one recipe this week. Here are 12 blackberry and boysenberry (my fave!) recipes. Includes my boysenberry pie.
Dandelion Wish: Processing Factory. I still can't get over this 2019 art piece that was just outside LA. I can't get over that I missed it either.
Where Am I From?: I found this New York Times Op-Doc from Nouf Aljowaysir very moving. She uses images to ask AI the question she's struggled with since childhood.
Pies for Justice: is back with a stellar lineup of bakers to entice. On June 15th in celebration of Juneteenth.
This Time: It's a dog on a skateboard and oh yeah, he's better than you.
Boiled down blackberries and fresh biscuits evoke poet Crystal Wilkinson's Appalachian childhood. Photo by Kelly Marshall
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