Hello friends,
The tour wraps up today, but sometimes when you travel, there are glitches and unexpected opportunities. In my case, it's the announcement of a national train strike for two days here in Italy. Currently, I’m in Monopoli, a small seaside town in Puglia on the Adriatic. I was supposed to get a train to Rome this morning, but instead, I'm being driven to Bari where I will spend two nights exploring the town, then I'll take the train to Rome to fly home.
I’ve been to Bari before when I’ve done the same tour, but it’s usually a relatively brief visit — just enough time to walk along the seaside promenade and dip into the old town and have lunch. It will be fun to wander through the city with no agenda for a couple of days.
This past visit, our truly amazing guide to the city, Georgio, introduced us to a woman who lives in one of the characteristic tower homes. They are made up of three rooms stacked on top of each other, accessible by a staircase external to the home. The kitchen is on the ground floor and the door opens to the small lane in front of the house. There are no additional windows, so people live open to the neighborhood. She isn’t one of the usual pasta ladies you see in many videos making orecchiette, so it was a treat to see the way she made the regional pasta and how different it was from what we learned in our cooking class in Lecce.
If you’re interested in joining me on one of these trips, there is one spot left for my Parma tour in the fall.
The Week's Dining Highlights from the GF Team:
From Evan: Al Sorso Preferito — Yes, you can get Pasta Assesina here, but I particularly liked the antipasti, which included two different artichoke preps, seafood salad, grilled mushrooms, meatballs (with no sauce), and homemade potato chips. We also tried the traditional dish Tiedda made of rice, potatoes, and mussels.
From Elina: I had a delicious breakfast at Lodge Bread on Robertson. Didn't get the shakshuka, which is delicious, or the ginormous cinnamon roll, but I devoured their big breakfast.
All the best,
Evan