We are thrilled this week to have two of our heroes on the show. I’ve known Marion Nestle for decades. She is the famed public health advocate who comes to the work as a molecular biologist and a nutritionist. She is the Paulette Goddard Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health Emerita at New York University. Not a slouch. Every word Marion utters on the intersection of food and public health is backed up by meticulous research. Her blog Food Politics is eagerly read by those who want real information with depth. She was joined in conversation by Helena Bottemiller Evich, the founder of Food Fix, our go-to source for food policy news and analysis. We are fans.

Before Food Fix, Helena launched POLITICO’s food policy coverage, and she was the Washington correspondent for Food Safety News, where she covered deadly foodborne illness outbreaks. With their backgrounds, of course we wanted to talk to these women about the Cyclospora outbreak.

At the time we recorded our conversation, the number of people affected had risen to 18,000. A shocking number for this particular parasite. Their outrage was palpable because it didn’t have to happen. Food safety oversight in this country has never been stellar since much of it is left up to companies to police themselves. But the number of people in labs doing vital research monitoring bacterial and parasitic threats and inspectors who do on-site evaluations has dropped alarmingly under this administration. There are 31% fewer government food safety employees than a year ago.

I was dismayed to hear that Marion is dealing with a series of spurious attacks from Calley Means, a senior advisor to HHS. Anyone who has read her work understands that the attacks are the worst kind of upside-down reasoning. I am so angry on her behalf. Her rebuttal is here. And here is a list of articles of support from allies.

It’s an important conversation on food safety that goes beyond this particular outbreak. Please listen.

Good Food, Part I:

• Emiko Davies builds the backbone of the Japanese pantry.
• Chef Tadashi Ono and food writer Harris Salat have spent nearly two decades exploring that soulful side of Japanese cuisine together, compiling simple seasonal recipes that generations of families have relied on.

BONUS Episode: Marion Nestle and Helena Bottemiller Evich unpack the current state of public health amid the nation’s collective stomach bug — Cyclospora.

Good Food, Part II (In lieu of the bonus episode above, the podcast link for Part II will be available on Monday, 8/3, but you will be able to hear it live on 89.9 FM at 10 AM this Saturday and Sunday):

• Cathy Park of The Infatuation feasts on her favorite part of a Korean meal.
• Chef Chuy Cervantes from San Damian shops the farmer's market for lemon cucumbers.

—Evan

THE GOOD FOOD TEAM'S DINING HIGHLIGHTS

Evan: This vibrant, just sweet enough, and bursting with flavor plum sorbet with tiny bits of chocolate from Sqirl was just the ticket on a blistering evening.

Gillian: It’s fig season, and I’ve been sampling my way through the varieties. This is a Violette de Bordeaux, which has a beautiful jammy texture and nice balancing acidity. Buy them before the season ends at either Murray Family Farms or JJ’s Lone Daughter Ranch.

Laryl: I’m back at Dodger Stadium sampling the latest concessions. The Chick-E-Churri Sandwich was considerably juicier than the chicken tenders (both available at Chicken Changeup, tucked away in Reserve 12). Breaded in cornmeal and served on an LA-branded bun with chimichurri and cucumber slices, this number definitely has a place in the rotation.

Elina: We’re in Montreal so naturally, we had to try bagels. The two top shops are St. Viateur & Fairmount. They’re only a 10-minute walk away from each other, so if you’re a carb nerd, you can do a compare/contrast. That’s what we did. The winner? St. Viateur. Both places are great, but the St. Viateur bagels are a bit softer and more pliable. They’ve got a great crust, and they’re perfectly chewy. And their Everything bagel puts every other Everything bagel I’ve ever eaten to shame. Truly. It’s covered all over in seeds and seasoning to the point where you can’t tell which is the top and which is the bottom. They do not skimp! We’re bringing back a dozen. And we’re not sharing them.

WHAT I'M CONSUMING

 Photo credit Simply Recipes / Mihaela Kozaric Sebrek.

WEEKLY RECIPE: It's hot. You want something hydrating that will fill you up too since your appetite is diminished. Make yourself a Mango Lassi. The classic Indian restaurant refresher is simple to make and especially delicious if you manage to find great fresh mangoes. But even made with frozen mangoes it hits the spot on a hot day. GET THE RECIPE.

TASTY THINGS TO DO

• Chef Casey Lane brings back The Tasting Kitchen to Abbot Kinney. The acclaimed restaurant brought national attention to Lane’s cooking and became a defining part of Venice’s dining scene. The restaurant closed after a fire in March 2023 but returns with the chef’s signature embrace of market ingredients. The bar program, led by Blake Antrobus, reflects the same seasonal, ingredient-driven philosophy as the kitchen.

• Walter Soto, the chef made famous for his Sonoran food truck El Ruso on L.A.'s streets and Netflix's Taco Chronicles, opened a brick-and-mortar location of El Ruso in Studio City, replacing Roadside Taco at the same address on Ventura Boulevard. Soto also confirms Julia Silva will be on site, preparing her impressive sobaqueras, massive flour tortillas made by the hands of a pro, for El Ruso's burritos. 

TASTY THINGS TO READ 

• The Boy Scouts of America voted to admit girls nearly a decade ago. Seven young ladies in the troop Erica Song led made the switch and never looked back.

• John Early spoofs cooking content creators in “Maddie’s Secret.” Priya Kushner has thoughts.

• Speaking of… who’s ready for the new YouTube series The Real Food Show from Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr.?

AWWW

This shiba inu sure knows how to run a shop.

To see more of what I'm consuming, including recipes, events, and other stories, check out my Substack!

—Evan