Growing up in Los Angeles meant snowless winter holidays and often eighty-degree weather to go along with the palm trees waving in the breeze. But my mom and I did have our traditions. We would shop for a tree at the railroad yards just east of Downtown LA. After we got our tree, we headed to The Pantry for breakfast. It was always a giant pancake for her and eggs and a ham steak for me. Then we'd head home to situate and "trim" the tree. There was a lot of metal tinsel involved. My grandfather had a large hardware store in Philadelphia, where Mom grew up, so her ornament collection was filled with German blown glass beauties. I still have them. They sit side by side with the Mexican painted metal animals and figures made from straw. 

I love the last two weeks of December in LA. It's why I almost never travel during the holidays. Staying in the city, you benefit from the relative emptiness that results from so many others leaving town. Roads are navigable, restaurant reservations are easier to get, and our many public gardens are ready for a lazy stroll. There is something about the winter light, the way the landscape colors become more saturated, and how that light combines with a more still, chill city that fills me with a deep sense of contentment. 

I hope you are able to find some moments of peace to end the year.

— Evan

DINING HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GOOD FOOD TEAM

Evan: I met a friend at Tomat in Westchester where I ate the Half English for lunch. The poached egg was perfect. The room is so comfortable and filled with friendly people. 

Gillian: It's prime time for chicories at The Garden Of. I'm sorry to report that the farm won't be back at the Wednesday market until January, but for folks who took some home last Wednesday, you're in luck. I'm taking inspiration from The King Cookbook and will pair them with lentils, potatoes, and an anchovy dressing.

Laryl: I was gifted a classic panettone from Jyan Isaac Bread and have spent all week snacking on it with eggnog and my morning coffee. Also available in chocolate, it's a festive and delicious gift for anyone on your list. The decorative box will be housing Christmas ornaments once my tree comes down. 

Elina: I had a chance to try the pies at Fiorelli Pizza, which recently opened on W. 3rd St. after growing from a pop-up in Venice. My favorite pie is a white pizza with sausage, and theirs is fantastic. Perfect thin but chewy and blustery crust. Their meatballs are also outstanding! Let's hope Fiorelli's expands to more locations!

THE LATEST EPISODE OF GOOD FOOD

On this week's episode of Good Food…

• Kathy Fang spent her childhood shaped by 24 square blocks of San Francisco, where her father manned a wok, feeding hungry customers at the House of Nanking.
• Forager Pascal Baudar hunts down wild seeds and grains.
• Jess Shadbolt helms the kitchen at King, the ingredient-focused New York City restaurant with an aesthetic of eating simply but lavishly.
• One of the world's foremost authorities on libations, former Shakespeare professor David Wondrich delivers the history of the cocktail in comic book form.

Connect with Good Food host Evan Kleiman on Substack.

WHAT I'M CONSUMING

WEEKLY RECIPE: Hanukkah is almost over. If you haven't yet had your fill of latkes but you'd like to change them up, why not waffle them? I particularly like these Waffled Vegetable Latkes made with potato, carrots, zucchini, and red bell pepper from Gina Homolka of Skinny Taste. GET THE RECIPE

TASTY STUFF TO DO

• The final Smorgasburg LA of 2025 comes with a Caribbean twist. This Sunday, enjoy the Caribbean Christmas Market featuring pop-ups from @bridgetownroti, @bodegadelights, @simplywholesome, and several other vendors. It happens December 21st, 10 Am–4 PM at @rowdtla. Free entry. 
• Whether you celebrate Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, some other holiday, or none of the above, it's definitely the season for local makers markets. These other markets around LA are good bets: Huntington Beach's Old World Market, Santa Monica College Holiday Art Sale, and Los Feliz Flea.
• Want to get on the ice? Here's a handy list of the 9 Most Enchanting Rinks To Go Ice Skating Around Los Angeles This Winter.

READING LIST

• It's not too late to order tamales for Christmas… or for another holiday… or for no reason at all. But where do you get them? Check out LA Taco's Best Tamales list. 
• How did the Red Lion in Silver Lake evolve from a Black Forest fantasyland to something stranger, sillier, and more distinctly LA? You'll enjoy the tale of the 66-year-old German tavern.
• The culture wars have come to the kitchen. Here's the story of how the politics of food brought together the crunchy left and the trad right.

AWWWW

This is what a baby capybara looks like when it walks underwater.

To see more of what I'm consuming, including recipes, events, and other stories, check out my Substack!

—Evan