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For Dr. Svetlana Davydov, whose Bukharian Jewish family hails from Central Asia, a Sukkot meal might include stuffed bell peppers and grape leaves, bakhsh (rice with beef and herbs), samsa (pastries stuffed with beef and squash), plov (rice pilaf with beef), and fried carp with garlic and cilantro. Photo by Penny De Los Santos.

Hello Friends,

It's not a good idea to start working on this missive while hungry. I had to step away from the laptop to make myself something quick. It turned out to be a three scrambled egg affair with chopped, blanched broccoli, green onions, a tablespoon of yogurt scrambled in, and a few blobs of cream cheese a la Sarabeth's in NYC.  Ohh, I feel so much better now. Looking back at last week, my favorite meal was at Azizam, a modern Persian pop-up, now with its own space on Sunset Blvd. in Silverlake. The food is so good, simultaneously light and homey. I can't decide if my favorite was the vegetarian eggplant-yellow split pea stew (so light!) or the kofteh tabrizi (giant rice-flecked meatball) or the ash-e-jo, a super comforting soup. Don't sleep on the shirini napoleoni, the milles feuilles for dessert. I'm already planning my next meal. A lovely, hospitable place.

With only a week left until PieFest, baker Nicole Rucker gives us tips on how to optimize your apple pie. I loved this conversation! And I can't believe PieFest is just a week away. Please come and hang out. I'll be on the demo stage most of the day with great guests, including Ira Glass! I'm in nerdy radio heaven. Ira will be part of the esteemed judging panel and will join me on the demo stage. I feel a frisson of nerves coming on! All are welcome at PieFest.

I want to bring attention to the Market Report this week. It's not about a vegetable. It's about the extraordinary longevity and innovation of Michael McCarty's Michael's. He's a fascinating guy who is never more passionate than when talking about the restaurant business. They are celebrating 45 years with a brigade of past chefs, a who's who of LA icons.

Scroll down for information on this week's show segments and some great recipes that came through.

Thank you, Evan

The apple pie at Fat & Flour is a work of art in edible form. Photo by Nicole Rucker.

Fat and Flour's Nicole Rucker says, "Crumble is a lot of people's favorite, in terms of fruit pie topping." She makes two different types, a cream cheese-based crumble and an oat and brown sugar crumble. For the former, she replaces some of the butter with cream cheese. "It has this tender and slightly tangy cream cheese dough flavor and texture to it," she says. A great conversation with a master pie maker.

Apple Pie
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Naama Shefi, author of "The Jewish Holiday Table," celebrates a Shabbat meal with her family. Photo by Penny De Los Santos.

The Jewish diaspora encompasses an array of cultures with food and traditions that span many global cuisines. Naama Shefi showcases many of them in her new cookbook, The Jewish Holiday Table. Since launching the Jewish Food Society in 2017, she has dedicated herself to documenting and preserving Jewish food in all its global, diasporic glory. The book is filled with stories and really interesting recipes. I already bookmarked so many recipes in this book.

Recipe
Frijoles are one of the staples of Salvadoran cuisine. Photo by Ren Fuller.

When Karla Tatiana Vasquez went looking for Salvadoran recipes on the internet, she couldn't find many that satisfied her, nor a cookbook in English. So the writer, recipe developer, and food justice advocate vowed to represent. She founded SalviSoul, initially as a way to preserve her family’s recipes. Since then, it has grown into so much more, expanding to document cultural memory and intergenerational connections among the Salvadoran diaspora. As part of that, she has just released The SalviSoul Cookbook: Salvadoran Recipes and the Women Who Preserve Them.

Recipe
A woman sells vegetables in Southern Thailand. Photo by Austin Bush.

Another cuisine with little representation in cookbook form (in English) is that of Southern Thailand. Writer and photographer Austin Bush came to Thailand as a University of Oregon linguistics student. He stuck around and ended up living there for more than two decades. In The Food of Southern Thailand, Bush once again expands his geographic and culinary horizons. "It's a very distinct, palpable change," Bush says with lots of spice, coconut milk, and seafood.

Recipe
The perloo is Bill Addison's favorite dish at Joyce, a Southern restaurant in downtown LA. Photo by Ziv Sade.

Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Bill Addison hails from the South, so when he heard about Joyce, a globally-minded Southern restaurant with Chef Sammy Monsour at the helm, he was excited. It did not disappoint. They're all great, but Addison has a hard time straying from the perloo, a South Carolina Lowcountry staple that's usually made with lots of pork and bacon. Monsour's version relies on seafood — oysters, shrimp, lobster stock — and hunks of Spanish-style chorizo. "That is the number one thing I recommend ordering for dinner," Addison says.

Joyce
Michael McCarty (in the front) poses with a few members of the original crew at Michael's (left to right): Jonathan Waxman, Mark Peel, and Ken Frank. Photo courtesy of Michael's.

Standing at the Downtown Santa Monica Farmers Market, you can practically see Michael's, one of the restaurants in the vanguard of the farm-to-table ethos. When chef/owner Michael McCarty debuted it in 1979, he was only 25 years old and the farmers market hadn't yet launched. This week, the restaurant celebrates 45 years in business. Listen to this segment! 

Iconic

What I'm Consuming

WEEKLY RECIPE: My pot roast for Passover recipe, inspired by Mark Bittman's and riffed upon. Dredged in sugar for exceptional browning, deglazed with sherry vinegar and orange juice. 

4/20: In honor of the day, my favorite low-dose edibles, Rose Delights. The company has an ingredient-driven approach and is known for collaborating with farmers and chefs.

Charoset Ideas: From my conversation with Madeleine Brand on Press Play this week. Three recipes that aren't based on apples, including mine which uses whole oranges.

Anything's Pastable: May 2nd at 7 PM The event with myself, Dan Pashman, and Andy Richter will be an evening of spirited opinions and passions about pasta and sauces using Dan's latest book as a springboard. A Now Serving LA event at Chow Now in Culver City. Dan is the host of the beloved podcast The Sporkful.

A Kitten: (an orange one of course) is inspired by a Michael Jackson video.

Pot Roast Shutterstock
Evan's Pot Roast w/Oranges and Dates
Photo courtesy of Shutterstock
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