Exploring African flavors, Japanese fermentation, and a Paris farmers market.
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It's hot in Southern California. Despite the many videos of shocked transplants, it's not that unusual at this time of year. I have distinct memories of getting up to childhood hijinks by sticking my fingers through the walls of our porch pumpkin because it actually cooked in the heat enough to slump and soften. Remember, even though it may cook in the sun, that pumpkin you lovingly carved is probably not of eating quality. Not to worry, we are deep in squash season!
Go to any farmers market and you'll see a physical manifestation of the word cornucopia. The group noun for squash should be "an abundance." Don't wait until Thanksgiving to bring them to the table. I've gotten in the habit of buying a Delicata squash every time I go to the market because you can eat them with the peel still on. Also, their size is perfect as a side dish for two people or as dinner for one. We have more inspiration for you with this roundup of squash and pumpkin recipes. The title may say Thanksgiving, but the recipes are great anytime.
As federal support for a myriad of agriculture and food programs wanes or is cut completely, the phrase "mutual aid" will be heard more frequently. This week on the show, we feature an inspiring project that is a heartfelt example of community in action and good eating! Don't miss Meymuna Hussein-Cattan as she describes her restaurant, Flavors from Afar, which features dishes from refugee chefs, and how it feeds her non-profit Tiyya Foundation.
—Evan
DINING HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GOOD FOOD TEAM
Evan: Good Food host I absolutely love Belgian endive. Petit Trois' version sets the crisp, crunchy pale yellow spears in a tall pile with a blizzard of grated pecorino dusting it like snow. I start eating the petals with my fingers, then turn to a fork to facilitate a treasure hunt for the avocado, anchovy, and chopped walnuts that lie below.
Gillian:Good Food supervising producer & Market Report correspondent As part of his work at Site Santa Fe, artist David Horvitz picked apples at a 100-year-old ranch in New Mexico where Japanese men labored while incarcerated during WWII. These apples were brought to Los Angeles, sliced, and mixed with toasted buckwheat, miso, butter, and brown sugar, then baked in a gorgeous flaky pastry by chef Giles Clark at Cafe 2001. We gobbled up the pie. Now, David's ceramic cat, an homage to a sculpture whittled by a Japanese prisoner, sits on my desk.
Laryl:Good Food senior director Super Peach is open at the Westfield Century City mall. Yes, there is glazed pork belly. Yes, there is fried chicken. But there is something about the Matsuhisa-style fried shrimp with red onion and lemon mayo that takes me back to my childhood.
Elina:Good Food digital producer It's been ages since I had an LA street dog. Like bumping into an old lover who has aged exceptionally well, my first bite made me think, "Why did we ever part, mi amor?" By my last bite, I didn't regret my choice.
Kenji Morimoto was tasked with making pickles in his family's kitchen. It blossomed into a love of fermentation.
Born in a refugee camp in Somalia, Meymuna Hussein-Cattan ended up launching a celebrated refugee aid organization as well as Flavors from Afar, which earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand.
For the Market Report, Gillian Ferguson heads to Paris where she catches up with chef David Lebovitz at the Marche d'Aligre.
Connect with Good Food host Evan Kleiman on Substack.
This version of the traditional Zucca in Agrodolce, or roasted winter squash drenched with a sweetened vinegar sauce, comes from famed NYC restaurant Via Carota. The rich, tender squash, which is tempered by pine nuts and a tart sauce, is the perfect segue from summer to fall.GET THE RECIPE
TASTY STUFF TO DO
This Saturday, November 1st, Self Help Graphics presents its annual Día de los Muertos celebration.Expect traditional altars and a procession of local dancers, poets, and musicians guiding you from Mariachi Plaza to East LA Civic Center Park, where the main festivities will occur.
On Monday, November 3rd, Chinatown restaurant Firstborn will host a cocktail pop-up with bar director Kenzo Han and his mentor, Huy Pham. Choose from a bowl of seasonal fruit and you'll get a custom cocktail created just for you. Enjoy chef Anthony Wang's fried chicken sandwich with blood orange sauce while you sip.
On November 1st, SNAP payments to 5.5 million Californians (and 42 million Americans) will stop due to the federal government shutdown. That delay will be heavily felt by the state's Latinx population. Here are some organizations helping hungry people.
It's MAHA vs. MAGA as Big Soda wages a coordinated campaign to stymie efforts to curb the consumption of soda and ultra-processed foods. Meanwhile, Whole Foods is walking a tightrope by trying to woo MAHA consumers without alienating "the affluent, blue-state progressives who have long been [its] customer base."
To see more of what I'm consuming, including recipes, events, and other stories, check out my Substack!
—Evan
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