Hola, Steve! This is Gustavo Arellano, your sometimes KCRW Insider, popping in to finally announce who won my 2024 KCRW and Gustavo’s Great Tortilla Tournament… in 2025!
As I explained over in my Substack, there’ve been, ahem, some delays over the past month and a half which precluded the reveal of the result between corn winner Chabelita’s (of Pacoima) and flour winner Heritage Barbecue (of San Juan Capistrano) in our #tortillatournament finale.
Well, the time for dilly-dallying is over. The winner is… well, let’s go back to the morning when I let the winner know they won.
I showed up early to avoid the winner’s inevitable crowds. KCRW senior events producer Krissy Barker showed up as well to hand me the Golden Tortilla, the trophy all #TortillaTournament winners keep in perpetuity (the Chiquihuite Cup, the trophy that winners get to keep for a year before giving it to the next winner? It’s, um, broken, and I need to fix it!).
Krissy needed to go somewhere, but I asked her to taste the winning tortilla to see what she thought. “Is there butter in it?” she said, chomping away at the winner. “There’s a pancake quality to it. It’s moist inside but not soggy at all.”
She grinned when I said she could take one of the tortillas home. “I’m excited about this. This is excellent. Great choice!”
I finished my meal and went up to the winner’s window to ask for the owner. “Congrats,” I told them, “You’re the winner of the 2024 KCRW and Gustavo’s Great #TortillaTournament.”
And the winner is…
Chabelita’s in Pacoima!
Their corn tortillas are large, thick, earthy, and brilliant. Pacoima is on the other edge of the universe for me coming from Orange County, but I find myself making the trek to get as many of those tortillas as possible. Chabelita’s has made it into the Suave 16 every year they’ve participated, but never made it into the Suave 16 until 2024.
And now, they’re winners.
Owner Juan Santos (pictured above) has run the restaurant for about 15 years. He had no idea what I was talking about when I said all of the above, and gave me a polite thank-you when I handed him the Golden Tortilla through Chabelita’s take-out window. But when I asked Santos if I could take a photo of him with the trophy in front of the small restaurant’s menu, I showed him on my smartphone the article about the 2023 winner, Taco María. A huge smile broke across his face.
“Wow!” Santos exclaimed, the victory finally sinking in for him. Inside, one of his workers cheered.
It was the breakfast rush, and Santos was needed inside, so I asked where Chabelita’s got their masa before letting him go.
“We get our masa from Graciana’s,” he replied in Spanish, referring to the legendary Sylmar tortilla factory that has been feeding the San Fernando Valley since the 1930s. “But we customize it to our taste. When we get it, it has too much cal,” referring to the slaked lime used in the masa-making process that breaks down corn kernels.
No wonder I thought Chabelita’s winning entry was a bit more sour than usual when my fellow judges and I tasted them in the finale. But that didn’t stop its victory over Heritage, which remains the best flour tortilla in Southern California but just couldn’t… well, you’re going to have to read the blow-by-blow here.
Congrats, Chabelita’s, on being the first tortilla from the San Fernando Valley to win my #TortillaTournament. Everyone: head over to Pacoima this weekend to taste the best tortillas, corn or flour, Southern California has to offer. Make sure to order them with the chile rellenos, which are pillowy masses of queso panela goodness and the best in Southern California. Hey… maybe I should start a #ChileRellenoTournament!
Want more tortilla choices? Check out our tortilla map — happy eating! Stay tuned later this year for the 2025 #TortillaTouranment. And gracias.