Hola, Steve! This is Gustavo Arellano, your sometimes KCRW Insider, popping in with the latest update (and the thing I’m still plugging)... MASA MADNESS!:
The Fuerte Four finalists for KCRW and Gustavo’s Great #TortillaTournament!
Over the past few weeks, we’ve been waging our annual Masa Madness, where we get 64 tortillas — 32 corn, 32 flour — to face off against each other for the Golden Tortilla, which we hand out every year to the greatest tortilla in Southern California (corn has won three times, as has flour). Over on my Substack, we explained why #TortillaTournament was online only this year, and held our third San Diego Invitational. We saw a lot of upsets for Round One, and ustedes who subscribe to Insider got the exclusive peak to our Suave 16, the finalists who have a guaranteed ticket in next year’s #TortillaTournament, which will be the biggest one EVER.
On Monday, I revealed the Eso 8. And right now…here are our Fuerte Four! Sometime very soon, myself, fellow judges Connie Alvarez, Mona Holmes and Evan Kleiman, and #TortillaTournament scout Sean Vukan will gather to eat our finalists and decide which will be the fairest tortilla this year.
For the corn category:
We’re going to have a matchup of the OLD SKOOL: Chabelita’s in Pacoima (the winner in Evan Kleiman’s bracket) versus Mitla Cafe in San Bernardino, which was KCRW chingona Connie Alvarez’s pick. Both of them have made the Suave 16 each year they’ve participated, but neither had ever made it into the Fuerto Four until now — Mitla Cafe, in particular, kept losing to blue corn tortillas, to much meme hilarity. So it makes me very happy to see them go this far — and now comes the hard part.
Both Chabelita’s and Mitla offer yellow-corn tortillas at their most fundamental and ancient: thick, handmade, with great color and a smell of fresh masa. If I tasted them without looking at them, it would be hard to tell the difference, so good the two of them are. But, as Highlander once said, there can be only one immortal tortilla — and we will decide that soon.
For the flour category:
We have last year’s flour tortilla winner, Heritage Barbecue in San Juan Capistrano versus Casa De Bandini, which is making history this year as the first tortilla from San Diego County to ever make it into the Fuerte Four (quick aside: how awesome is this tournament as a secret code to Southern California life? We have representatives from the San Fernando Valley, the Inland Empire, San Diego County, and Orange County. Let’s see Michelin top THAT).
Heritage won my bracket by taking down perennial Suave 16 contender Sonoratown with small, handmade tortillas that are a meal unto themselves because they’re made with beef tallow. That imparts a smokiness unlike any other tortilla I’ve ever had. But they’re facing a strong rival in Casa De Bandini, a Carlsbad institution where their tortilla-making station is front and center in the dining room. I love their big flour tortillas because they’re thin, buttery, and have tiny char marks that make magic.
You can find our Golden Tortilla champion next week here on Insider. In the meantime, go check out our tortilla map — happy eating! And gracias.
Gustavo Arellano
Chht-chht! Connie here with another plug! Don't miss the International Tamales Festival in Long Beach this Saturday for your stuffed masa fix because it's tamale season!